This stand is made of hard maple and mounts to the bottom of the Gilmore Inkle Loom, the Gilmore Wave, and will fit other table looms. It is easy to mount with 4 screws to the bottom of any table or portable loom with a solid bottom of at least 3/4 inch thick. The length is adjustable so you can use your loom while sitting in a chair, or couch. It can also be used to weave vertically on a table. The pivot axles can be adjusted so they swing tightly or loosely. This makes it easy to work from a sitting position and allows you to rock back and forth with your weaving movements. When not in use the whole assembly folds up under the loom and only adds about 1 inch under the loom. .Price Information
Gilmore Bench The Gilmore Bench is made of solid hardwood maple. The top is 13 1/2 in. x 30 in.. The bench is tilted to the front making it easier on your back and to allow more comfortable treadle contact. Bench height is 22 1/2" in the front and 23" in the back. The drawer has maple ends and poplar sides and It slides through both ends for easier access. Price Information
Gilmore Horizontal Warping Reel System
The Horizontal Warping Reel allows you to easily make a long or short warp. The reel bars are 30" across and almost 2 yards around. Because it is horizontal the warp does not slip down, and to wind your warp threads all you need to do is turn the reel. There are 2 lease crosses that can be put anywhere on the Reel section to start and end your winding. The amount of warp varies by thread type, and width. (For example 12 yards of 300 strands of 5/2 pearl cotton can easily be measured). You can control whether the reel spins freely, turns slowly, or locks with an adjustable friction brake. The Warping Reel system is made of two sections, the Reel and the Stand. You can separate the two sections by simply lifting the reel out of the slots it sits in. The Reel section spokes are securely locked open by tightening wing nuts and washers on both sides into locking depressions (Photo 1). Turning the wing nuts and washers out will release the spokes and the top will fold into a width of 10 inches (Photo 2 and 3). You can collapse the reel after removing it from the stand. Or collapse it in the stand, either with the feet turned outward (Photo 2) or release the feet and turn them long ways to set the Warping Reel against a wall (Photo 3). Price Information To reduce shipping costs this item is shipped with the reel bars and many parts disassembled.
Rug Shuttles are handmade from hardwood maple and maple dowels. Stick shuttles are handmade from poplar. Price Information
A. (right) The Large Rug Shuttle is 1 3/4" wide x 2 5/8" high x 20" long. B. (right)The Small Rug Shuttle is 1 3/4" x 2 5/8" x 10" long. C. (right) The Stick Shuttle is 1/4" thick x 1 1/4" wide x 13" long. (unfinished)
Inkle Type Shuttles These shuttles are made from maple, hickory and other beautiful hardwoods. Price Information
Wave Loom Shuttles are made with a flat edge to turn up and hold the shed, and a tapered edge to pack the weavings.
The Warping Wedge is another need-to-have tool for warping. A Warping Wedge placed under the frames or shafts will lift them in a stairstep pattern. In this position it is easy to see which frame's heddles you are working on. A Warping Wedge can be placed to lift front to back or back to front. It will work on all Gilmore looms. Price Information
Regular Reed Slot Raddle: These raddles are made to replace the reed in the reed slot on the Beater Bar. They are made of maple and the dowels are spaced on 1" centers..There lengths vary for the different loom weaving widths. Price Information
Front/Back Raddle: The Front/Back Raddle is a raddle that can be mounted on either the front (breast) beam or the back top beam. It will fit all "Gilmore" and "Compact" series looms. When mounted on the beams it can be set to be an open raddle or a closed raddle. It comes with a set of special clamps that will not hurt the beams. It can also take the place of the reed in the shuttle race reed slot.Price Information
Some Advice for Weaving with an Inkle Loom 1. It is important to have your warp wrapped properly onto the Warping Beam. With Cloth/Warp Beam Inkle Looms you can make much longer warps than a "continuous warp" Inkle, and when weaving you will want your warp tight. As you wrap the warp on try to keep it flattened out and firmly wrapped. Use separators for the different layers. Short pieces of Venetian blinds are ideal, and wood "craft sticks" will also work (though thicker). The separators should extend past "limiters" (dowel pegs on the Inkle/Belt looms, Warping U Brackets on the Lap Loom, and adjustable steel pins on the Wave) so the warp threads will not spread out past and over the ends of the separators. 2. The warp fibers in Inkle weaving go through string or Texsolv heddles. This puts them very close together. With a tight warp and fibers against each other some fibers slide easily, but some are "sticky" and do not slide easily against each other when making your SHED. If they do resist you simply have to run your finger along the area the fibers are shifting through, loosening them up, as you switch layers for the shed. This works for any Inkle Loom using handmade string heddles (photo A), or the Wave loom or Texsolv Inkle Tower looms (photo B).
Front Beam Cloth Pocket This pocket is made to fit a "Gilmore" or Compact series loom. A sturdy cloth is supported by steel bars and hardwood maple ends. This allows you to have all your shuttles and accessories within easy reach. It is easily removed as needed. The mounting brackets for the 40" and 46" looms are a wood clamping system shown in photo A. The mounting brackets for the 26" and 32" looms are a cushioned metal and Velcro system shown in photo B. (Click Here for pricing information)
Opened dimensions: 38" long 26" wide or depth 37" high Approximately 27 Lbs.